triumphsonly.com does transmission rebuilds for around $700/exchange, and $1800 for Overdrive Transmission Jack: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39178 From JHMDDS@aol.com Make sure you get the correct tranny. I had the New Zealand conversion done. I noticed when shifting into 5th at 70mph that the rpms only dropped about 450 instead of the 800 most people were getting. Found out from Herman that there are two trannys and I got the wrong one. Also invest in a different drive angle. My original was so angled that the speedo cable broke. The cables are not readily available as one end fits the Toyota box and the other fits the Smith's speedo. Anyway Herman gave me the part # for a different, less curved drive angle that remedied the problem. http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/gearboxtool.htm DOWELS ------ Re: [TR] [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels -> Thanks for all the responses about transmission locating dowels and their -> importance. Herman seconded everything you told me and he's sending me a few -> that he buys from McMaster.com. It's part number 98381A624 and they're -> called Dowel Pins. The downside is you have to buy a box of 25 for $8.95. -> The upside is you'll have a lifetime supply. Bob, I'm not sure I follow you here ... but the original configuration used two "dowel bolts" that served the purpose of both dowels and bolts. They had precision ground shanks that located (aligned) the bellhousing to the backplate, plus heads & nuts to clamp the bellhousing to the backplate. This was a change from earlier engines that used plain dowels; so I believe the clamping function was added for extra strength. I agree with Herman that the locating function is most important; to the point that I'm convinced that lack of the correct bolts is a relatively common cause of clutch and gearbox problems on these cars. When I checked, the dowel bolts were NLA from most vendors, except one that appeared to be selling standard bolts. Using a standard bolt is a really bad idea, IMO, because they are made with undersize shanks that allow the gearbox to be out of alignment with the crankshaft, possibly enough to cause problems including premature failure of the bearing between the input and output shafts inside the gearbox. Without the dowels or dowel bolts; it's virtually impossible to get this alignment right. (When I bought my first Stag, it had exactly this failure, for exactly this reason I believe.) > if so, what's the options? Probably easiest is to purchase standard dowels (3/8" as I recall) and put them in the holes with a little Loctite to hold them into the plate. There was also a discussion a few years back that there should be some aircraft specification bolts with the precision ground shanks that would work. The part number AN176 was mentioned, tho I'm not sure if that is right or not. These are called "close tolerance" bolts by the aircraft folk, and differ from the more common "relaxed fit" standard aircraft hardware. Or, what I did was to buy some "drill rod" from MMC, which I cut to length and threaded for nuts on both ends. ---- I just use 3/8 inch round steel rod from the hardware store. I use two 12" (or there about) pieces to make the alignment easier when mating the trans to the back plate. When finished just knock them out and put in the 3/8 bolts last. --- According to Herman, the difference between using the locating dowels and using bolts is enough to severely shorten the life of the clutch. If you are doing the 5 speed conversion, once you knock out the 12" rod, replace them with the dowels, not bolts.